Dar es Salaam waterfront is a treasure trove of opportunities

By Charles Makakala

Tanzania:

Dar es Salaam’s epic coastline is the result of the battle that has been raging for millennia between the Indian Ocean and the East African continental drift. From Bagamoyo to Kimbiji, the city is dotted with stretches of pristine beaches that are ripe for exploration. Whether you are strolling along the silvery sands or diving into the crystal-clear waters, there is no shortage of breathtaking beauty to be found. 

These beaches have seen it all, from the rise of Bagamoyo as a major trading post and the founding of Dar from the little fishing village of Mzizima by Sultan Majid in 1865 to the establishment of Dar as the capital of Germany’s East African operations in 1891. These silvery sands have witnessed the flow of gold, ivory, and slaves, and have been a hub of cultural exchange for centuries. Men and women from India, Persia, Arabia, Europe, and far inland all came and left their indelible marks.

I recently had the opportunity to visit Bagamoyo for a strategic planning retreat with a client. As is my habit when visiting new places, I took the opportunity to explore the area on foot. Walking along the beaches of Bagamoyo for a couple of kilometres was a truly enriching experience. The ocean’s beauty is undeniable; it has a way of being both therapeutic and awe-inspiring. Of course, my mind couldn’t help but wander to thoughts of tsunamis, a fear that has lingered with me since the devastating event in 2004. Thankfully, the evening was peaceful, and the beach was quiet.

The eerie quietness and emptiness of the beach were unsettling, though.

In Dar, the beaches appear to be equally ignored by residents too. Many seem to have completely forgotten that they live next to a rich coastline, a fact that is a massive selling point elsewhere. As a result, there is no beach life, and the ocean plays a limited role in shaping the character and culture of this city.

Now let us compare that with the beaches in Israel.

Years ago, I had similar beach walks along a 6-kilometre stretch connecting Tel Aviv and the ancient biblical town of Jaffa. Along this route, the beaches were lined with hotels and business blocks that now probably host hundreds of international firms. As the work hours were ending, throngs of people made their way to the beaches, transforming them into a bustling city party each night.

Dar lacks culture – all we have is the mind-numbing struggle for survival. But hey, at least we have enterprising firms like Samaki Samaki that try to fill the void with events that draw multitudes. The officials may not like the results, but if they don’t provide for legal and acceptable ways for people to unwind, they will turn to illegal and unacceptable alternatives.

It is nature’s way.

While strolling along the beach in Bagamoyo, I remembered a discussion I had with a businessman who had grand plans to transform Dar’s waterfront. He even submitted a proposal to the government outlining his vision.

The proposal, known as the Dar-Bagamoyo Waterfront Development Initiative, was developed by a businessman called Moto Mabanga with a team of local and international consultants in 2013. It proposed the creation of an economic corridor along the shoreline as a way to revitalise the city. The initiative was designed to be a collaboration between the public and private sectors. I was immediately impressed by the concept’s potential as I read the documents.

In the past, I have suggested numerous ways to rejuvenate Dar es Salaam, including transforming Kariakoo into a cultural centre and turning the Msimbazi River Basin into a new Indian Ocean lagoon. The World Bank has also proposed transforming the BRT corridor into a vibrant economic space. The waterfront development idea holds the same transformative power as these suggestions. If Dar fails to evolve into a dynamic African metropolis and remains stuck in its ways as a traditional Swahili city, it is not due to a lack of effort.

Late last month, I challenged one diplomat to get out and explore Dar more. Dar is a big city, and if one’s experience is limited to the peninsula only, one will always feel like a stranger here. Thankfully, after some thought, he agreed to let me show him around the city one day.

As a Dar native, I know quite a bit about the city, and I have read my fair share about the top sightseeing attractions in the city. My dilemma is how to package those “attractions” into an unforgettable “one day in Dar” experience. It’s a challenge, to say the least, because I see no organisational paradigm that can achieve that. I feel for anyone who tries to sell Dar as a tourist destination. It’s just not as easy as it is for cities like Arusha or Zanzibar.

It is important to re-envision Dar es Salaam with systems in mind. We need to think about experiences for locals and visitors. The waterfront development idea is potent because it shows how the city’s beaches can be packaged into an experience that people would want to be a part of.

In the meantime, please keep me in your thoughts as I strive to create a magical experience for my foreign friend.